Transpacific Bound

Long Weekends

Bintan Gets Its Biggest Resort Back—the Ferry Still Runs the Weekend

The 450-room resort that closed in 2020 has reopened with 408 rooms and a Mövenpick sign. What decides your trip from Singapore is roughly four sailings a day, a one-hour time change, and a resort strip still mid-renovation.

Adrian LimAugust 17, 20268 min
Sunset over wet sand and shallow surf on an empty beach in northern Bintan, Indonesia
Photo: Seader, CC0

What actually came back

For 26 years, Bintan Lagoon Resort was the reflex answer in Singapore when someone needed a beach and had two days to spend on it. An hour of open water, a buggy ride, a long piece of sand, and immigration handled at a pier.

Then it went dark. In the summer of 2020, with the ferries idle and the borders shut, the owners filed a closure plan with the Bintan Regency manpower office and let 500 people go.

Buralimar, then head of the Bintan Tourism Office and known by one name, told The Straits Times that collapsing visitor numbers had finished off the 450-room property. Island-wide, he said, some 14,000 tourism workers had already been told to stop work.

That beach is open again. Mövenpick Resort & Spa Bintan Lagoon began taking guests this month on the same site in Sebong Lagoi, on the island's north coast. Its 408 rooms and suites each have a balcony or terrace.

The site came back smaller than it left, and slowly. Accor, which owns the Mövenpick brand, signed on to run the property in August 2022 with a 2023 opening in mind, then late 2024, then this August.

The new resort is deliberately busy: six dining rooms and bars, a two-storey beach club called Soñada, the Shantara spa, a kids' club, and a recreation village. Its function space covers more than 2,000 square metres, including a 900-square-metre ballroom. The two golf courses remain—one designed by Jack Nicklaus and the other by the Australian golfer Ian Baker-Finch.

The ballroom is the tell. This is inventory for weddings, offsites, golf groups, and families who want everything inside one gate. That is precisely what Bintan lost in 2020, which is why the reopening reads as a recovery marker rather than another hotel launch.

The island had already started coming back

The resort is landing in a recovery that was well underway, though nobody should call it a boom.

Foreign arrivals reached about 253,000 in 2025, up from roughly 209,000 a year earlier, according to the regency's culture and tourism office citing national statistics. Singaporeans made up about half of that traffic. The larger flow is now domestic: about 744,000 visits from elsewhere in Indonesia.

Early 2026 ran hotter. January and February together brought nearly 41,000 foreign arrivals, up roughly 60 percent on the same weeks last year.

Hold the scale in mind anyway. Across the wider Riau Islands, foreign visits reached about 1.79 million through November 2025, still well short of the nearly 3 million the province logged in 2019. The numbers describe a recovery, not a return to the old peak.

Sattridha Novfykar, secretary of the regency's culture and tourism office, has named the absence of direct international flights as a brake on growth. Even so, he projects 300,000 foreign visitors this year.

So the gateway is a boat, and boats keep timetables. That shapes a weekend here more than any amenity list.

The ferry is the itinerary

Bintan Resort Ferries runs the Lagoi crossing from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal in eastern Singapore to Bandar Bentan Telani, the arrival hall built for the resort strip. Call it 20 nautical miles and an hour and ten minutes.

Frequency is the real constraint. Monday through Thursday, four boats leave Singapore: 08:10, 11:10, 14:00 and 17:00, with a 09:10 sailing added Fridays and Saturdays. The operator wants you checked in 90 minutes ahead, which quietly turns a one-hour crossing into most of a morning. Always recheck the live grid before you book—extra sailings appear in peak weeks, and Sunday returns from Bintan run denser than the weekday pattern.

Now the part that catches people every season. Bintan keeps Western Indonesia Time, an hour behind Singapore, and the ferry company lists each terminal's departures in that terminal's own local time. A return boat shown at 18:35 leaves Bintan at 18:35 there—19:35 on your Singapore clock—and reaches Tanah Merah around 20:45 Singapore time after the crossing.

The classic error is subtracting the hour at the wrong end and reaching the pier as it pulls out. Enter each leg in that terminal's local time on the day you book.

Fares are refreshingly legible. Since March, an economy adult pays S$62 one way or S$100 return on regular dates, and those figures already include the terminal levies—rare enough to mention. A return that falls on peak dates costs S$110.

Emerald class starts at S$89 one way. Economy tickets carry 20 kilograms of checked baggage, and golf bags count against that allowance, which matters on an island selling 36 holes.

Build the two nights backwards from that grid. The Friday 17:00 sailing makes an after-work escape possible. The last boat from Bintan, around 18:35 local time, brings you home for a late dinner instead of eating your Sunday evening.

The paperwork that trips people at the terminal

Entry is straightforward without being automatic, and what you need depends on your document rather than your destination.

Singapore passport holders go in visa-free for up to 30 days under the ASEAN exemption. Some Singapore permanent residents have a narrower concession. If their nationality appears on Indonesia's visa-on-arrival list, a physical blue identity card allows up to four days visa-free at Bandar Bentan Telani or Sri Bintan Pura in Tanjung Pinang. A photo of the card on your phone will not do.

Travelers from visa-on-arrival-eligible countries can buy a permit at the terminal. The Riau Islands version is good for seven days, costs Rp 250,000 in cash—roughly S$20—and cannot be extended. The standard 30-day visa costs Rp 500,000, about S$40, and can be extended once. Bring rupiah in sensible notes, because the counter cannot always make change.

The step travellers genuinely forget costs nothing. Indonesia asks arrivals to file an electronic arrival declaration within the 72 hours before arrival—not the night you buy tickets weeks ahead. File it the evening before you sail and keep the QR or screenshot.

The usual two also apply: six months of passport validity and a return or onward ticket. These rules can change with little notice. Confirm them with Indonesian immigration close to departure rather than trusting a travel blog, this one included.

Lagoi is in the middle of a refresh

Bintan's resort strip has not finished rebuilding itself, and that cuts both ways for a booking this season.

Club Med Bintan, the enclave's other big family engine, is upgrading all 308 rooms through 8 December 2026. The resort warns that there may be noise near the work. The changes go beyond fresh paint: a 300-square-metre indoor play and workshop space opened in July, the brand's first in Asia. A grill restaurant is due before the year is out.

Banyan Tree Bintan and its Angsana sibling continue along the same coast with their own golf.

The Mövenpick, meanwhile, is days old. Its spa came online after the rooms did, which is normal and still worth knowing. Resorts this size need a season to settle: restaurant hours shift, staffing finds a rhythm, and not every venue will immediately run at full energy all week.

So the timing question has a real answer. Go now for regular-season ferry fares and the particular energy of a property trying hard to make a first impression. Wait until after early December if you want Club Med finished, or into 2027 if you want a Mövenpick that has had time to learn its own kitchen.

Granite shoreline and dense tropical greenery at Banyan Tree Bintan in Lagoi
Photo: Aimee Monteiro, CC BY 2.0

When Bintan is the wrong answer

The opening announcement describes a resort assembled so guests can “fill an entire weekend without leaving the property.” Read that line twice, because it is simultaneously the pitch and the warning, depending on what you are after.

Plenty of trips want exactly that promise: two tired parents and a five-year-old, a company offsite, a golf foursome, or a milestone birthday with grandparents along. Each is easier with one gate, one breakfast room, and a shuttle.

Still, Lagoi is a planned resort zone with its own ferry terminal, and it will not hand you Indonesian street life. Tanjung Pinang, the island's working city, sits roughly an hour away by road, and the airport there is about an hour and forty minutes from the Lagoi terminal. Markets, a real waterfront, and food that was not designed for a buffet all require scheduling a deliberate day out.

Two honest alternatives. Batam is nearer to Singapore, with more city around the hotels, if sand is not really the point. With four nights, compare the total with a flight to Phuket, Langkawi, or Bali. The longer journey buys a broader choice of neighborhoods and day trips.

What none of them can match is proximity, which is the entire reason this resort strip exists in the first place.

The booking window, and the plain test

There is a date on this decision, and it is a useful one.

The ferry operator's peak-fare calendar is empty between now and the first week of November. It then crowds up: 6–9 November, two more weekends that month, and most of December all carry the higher return fare. Travel before that and the crossing stays at S$100 instead of S$110. Modest money, but the calendar is also a decent proxy for how full the beach will be.

The resort's opening packages—a wellness version and a family version, each three days and two nights—are on sale for stays through 30 November. If launch pricing is what you want, that is the outer edge of it.

Check the island's event calendar before you pick a weekend rather than after. Tour de Bintan fills Lagoi from 21–23 August; the Bintan Marathon follows on 21–22 November. Each is a fine reason to go and a fine reason to avoid that weekend, depending on whether you are the one racing.

Then apply the plain test. Book the Friday evening sailing and the last boat home on Sunday. Enter each leg in that terminal's local time, file the arrival declaration within the 72 hours before you sail, and get any connecting-room promise in writing before you pay.

The island's case has always been arithmetic: genuine sand about 70 minutes from a city of six million people. The resort is back, and the regular-fare window runs until the first Friday in November.

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