Transpacific Bound

Diaspora Weekends

Get Off at Argyle. Devon Is a Different Day.

The summer night market on Argyle is over. Sun Wah is still closed Thursdays. Devon Avenue has no L station.

Claire HwangOctober 18, 20265 min
Storefronts along Devon Avenue in Chicago, including signs for Indian cuisine and neighborhood shops
Devon Avenue on March 19, 2006. The storefronts are from that afternoon. The avenue still runs more than a mile, and it still has no L station. Photo: Erstwhile.Human, CC BY-SA 2.0

October on Argyle

The Red Line stop at Argyle reopened in July 2025, fully accessible, after years of station work that emptied the sidewalks. Asia on Argyle is the Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Chinese corridor that grew here after the 1970s arrivals. The murals are louder than the lunch rush. Get off for the lunch.

October changes Thursday. Through July and August the Argyle Night Market takes the street on Thursday evenings, and that season has ended. Sun Wah BBQ, a few doors onto Broadway, is a James Beard America’s Classics Hong Kong barbecue house, and the kitchen is closed every Thursday. The Beijing duck is off the printed menu: carved at the table, then fried rice, then a soup from the carcass. Call at least a day ahead, and call for Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, or Sunday.

Phở 777, on Argyle, is closed Mondays. Tai Nam Food Market is the stop when you would rather walk the shelves than sit for another bowl. One lunch on this block is the day. If the wind is down, the lake can have the hour after.

The avenue without a station

Argyle is a Red Line stop. Devon is the day you budget a bus or a car.

Devon Avenue in West Ridge runs more than a mile of Indian, Pakistani, Nepalese, Bangladeshi, and Afghan shops, between roughly Seeley and California. “Little India” is the nickname that leaves out half the block. There is no L station. Parking is a fight. Patel Brothers, the grocery chain, started on this street. Sabri Nihari still serves a stew that takes about eight hours. Sukhadia’s is the chai-and-samosa middle of the day if you want something smaller than a feast.

Do that day as its own day. Trying to add it to an Argyle afternoon is how the weekend becomes a rideshare receipt.

Leave Wentworth for later

Cermak–Chinatown is also on the Red Line, which makes it tempting. The gate on Wentworth is a different Chinese Chicago from Sun Wah’s Broadway roast meat. Give it a morning of its own. Tacking it onto an Uptown day means you saw two trains and finished neither meal.

If a third day appears, Bronzeville is the Green Line and Pilsen is the Pink. The National Museum of Mexican Art, at 1852 West 19th Street, is free. A river cruise can follow a day you have already spent on foot.

October sits after the night market and before the January wind off the lake. Spend it on Argyle and Devon.

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